Mera Peak - Barun Tse Expedition - 33 days

Arrive in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal. Meet your trekking guide at the airport and transfer to your hotel. Spend the day exploring the vibrant streets of Kathmandu and preparing for the trek. Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

Today, we will spend the day sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley with our guide. We will visit Pashupatinath, which is regarded as the holiest Hindu temple in Nepal and where pilgrims worship Lord Shiva (situated on the banks of the holy Bagmati River), Bouddhanath, a Buddhist temple known as ‘Little Tibet’ and then on to Swayambhunath known as the Monkey Temple. From Swayambhunath we drive to Kathmandu’s famous Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, and located in front of the old royal palace. Upon arriving back at your hotel you may have time to do some last-minute shopping around Thamel – the tourist hub of Kathmandu.

We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Puiyan.

After breakfast cross the Puiyan Khola, then we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma. Many expedition members have been welcomed by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local’s traditional Sherpa homes.

Leave Panggom and make your way towards Ramailo Danda. It is an upward ascent through a pristine rhododendron forest to Pankongma La (3174m), a mountain pass. We cross the Dudh Koshi River Valley and walk into the Hingku Valley. En route, we savor breathtaking views of Numbur Himal, Kongde, and Manju Peak. We stop briefly at Ningsow for lunch. Afterward, trek up and down to Ramailo Danda. From here we get our first view of Mera Peak.

There are no human settlements or villages en route and the trail is wild and challenging. The park is home to Snow leopard, Red panda, Himalayan Tahr, musk deer, and many rare species of birds and plants. We stop at a quiet spot and have our packed lunch.  Climbing stone staircases and walking past rocky paths we finally arrive at Chhatra Khola, our stop for the night

Following the course of the Hinku River, the trail leads you to Kothe. You will walk alongside beautiful rhododendron forests and traverse several bridges along the way. Kothe is a small settlement surrounded by stunning natural beauty, with the Hinku Valley opening up before you.

After Kothe, we reach the Upper Hinku valley where the treeline disappears. There are no villages en route only ‘kharkas’ the summer camps of yak herders dot the landscape. Walk past Gondishung and Lungsumgba Gompa, a two-centuries-old Buddhist shrine. Lying underneath an enormous boulder, the local crew pay homage to deities burning incense.

En-route enjoy amazing views of Charpati Himal, Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, and Thamserku. After walking for about an hour we reach Thaknak, a summer camp of yak herders. Charpati Himal lies close to the teahouse and we can see the whole mountain.

At the elevation of 4,358m asl, Tangnang is an expanding cluster of tea houses and an ideal place for acclimatization purposes. But not just its altitude, this village also offers a side-trip to Charpate Himal Glacier, which is great as well as essential for trekkers and climber in order to adapt as per the surroundings with lower oxygen density. We can observe the close view of Charpate Himal (6,770m) – a sacred mountain for the Sherpas community, close to the side of Mera north and other snow-capped mountains from here. Eventually, we’ll move back t at Tangnang.

Today’s walk involves an ascent to the Dig Glacier and the Charpati Tal, a mountain lake. With stunning views of the Kyeshar glacier, Mera Peak, and Charpati Himal we walk down to Dig Kharka. A tough crossing of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers brings us to Khare. Khare lies at the bottom of Mera Peak and is also known as Mera Peak Base Camp. We climb Mera Peak from here

Today you will spend your time acclimatizing and practicing your climbing moves at the pre-climb training camp. Our Sherpa climbing guides will teach you how to properly use climbing equipment like jumar, carabiner, belay device, ice axe, harness, etc. They will teach you the basic and safe techniques to scale an incline using a rope and harness.

This training is valuable and helpful if you are a novice climber. A final gear and equipment check will be followed by final packing for the summit push.  Please keep in mind climbing boots of size 12 and greater are not readily available in Nepal. If your shoe size is 12 or 12 plus you need to bring it with you from your home country.

Take the steep and rocky path to Mera La. The three summits of Mera Peak – Mera North(6476m), Mera Central(6461m), and Mera South(6065m) – gleam invitingly. We will be climbing the summit of Mera Central. Crossing the Mera glacier we reach Mera Peak high camp. It is an easy hike up a slope with no technical climbing involved.

On reaching Mera High Camp, the crew serves us hot drinks. Enjoy views of five of the fourteen highest peaks in the world- Mount Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu(8485m), Cho Oyu(8188m), and Kanchenjunga (8586m). Chamlang (7319m), Gaurishanker (7134m), and Baruntse (7129m) also appear close. A single sleeping tent will be given to each climber. Food will be prepared by the local crew in a kitchen tent.

At 2 AM we prepare for the final summit push. After breakfast, we head out and rope up. A man-rope will secure our group. Hike up the glacier in a single file. No technical climbing is required in this section. The thin air and cold are the only factors that make the ascent difficult. Above 5000 meters we struggle to breathe properly and taking a step forward takes a lot of effort.

The last 40-50 meters to the summit is the most challenging portion. It is a steep incline and fixed rope and jumars are used to climb to the summit. By 9 or 10 AM we reach the summit. Amazing views of Mount Everest (8848m), Makalu (8481m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Lhotse(8516m), and other peaks surround us.

After spending 5 or 10 minutes savoring the victory and taking pictures we head down via the same route. We reach Mera High Camp have some refreshment.  Later we hike down to make a quick descent to Mera – la. Then, we head east. Taking a downward trail we reach Kongma Dingma where we rest for the night.

An extra day to rewind, relax and recharge your energy for the crossing of Amphu Lapcha

Leaving Kongma Dingma we walk past yak pastures and summer camps of yak herders. We proceed towards Seto Pokhari enjoying captivating views of Baruntse and Chamlang Himal.

Now, we will move towards Baruntse Base Camp on the Baruntse Expedition. It will be a demanding day as we will cross rugged terrain. We will be trekking for around 5 hours from the lake area. We have to trek slowly as we are regularly heading up. The base camp is located at 5,300m meters. By passing gently via rough boulders, we will reach the camp. 

The real journey begins here as we leave the base camp. We will do ups and downs on the trail to acclimatize for several days. Our climbing guide will lead us the way and preach things. We will follow them along the snowy and steep path.

With praying rituals at the base camp, we will start the Mt Baruntse climb. The walk will progress on an inclining snowy slope and over Hinku Glacier. We will have to use ladders to cross the crevasses coming upfront. We will reach the high camp area by doing it the guide's way.

From High Camp, the climb will get steeper and more exposed. The walk could be more technical around here. But we must be aware of snowstorms, which is normal here. We will climb the path to Baruntse's summit (7,162m). As a reward from the peak, we will embrace awe-inspiring views of Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Everest, and more. We will also view glaciers and pristine lakes.

When finishing the watch, we will gradually descend via the snowy crest and drop to the base camp. After returning from the summit, we will spend a night in the base camp.

We will begin cleaning our trash the next morning after arriving at the base camp. It is our utmost responsibility to clean the garbage. We will collect the garbage and manage it. After the cleaning, we will trek up to Ampu Lapcha Base Camp. Head to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp enjoying views of Mount Everest and lakes along the Hongu basin. A walk past the Hongu Pokhari above the Hongu valley brings us finally to the Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Our day will end in a tented camp at Seto Pokhari.

After leaving the base camp you make your way across a snowy trail to Amphu Lapcha Pass. You are in the dramatic Upper Hongu Valley which is one of the wildest areas in the Everest Region. Cold, Harsh, and challenging, no human settlements are found at this place.

After walking for about 4 to 5 hours you arrive at the pass. The pass looks stunning but daunting. Covered with ice shelves and serac cliffs, it is a steep incline and you use fixed rope, jumar, and ice axe to ascend the pass. This is one of the most difficult sections of your trip. The top is a narrow ridge filled with rocks. You get down using a fixed rope again. A walk through the Imja Glacier brings you to the Imja Tsho Lake in the Imja Valley.

After the hard couple of days over the two high hidden pass in between the massif peaks, our route from here leads to a pleasant walk on the downhill slope to Dingboche then Pangboche village. After two hours of easy walk brings us at Dingboche village. Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of field enclosed by stone walls, protecting the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals. Dingboche has about more than ten teahouses and it is also the gateway to Chhukung and farther beyond for the most challenging traverses towards Makalu area and Hinko Valley. From Dingboche a gentle walk leads towards the Imjatse River with excellent views of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga and Tawoche peaks the trail leads to a small wooden bridge, from the bridge an easy walk to Pangboche village. Staying at over night here or option for heading to Tyangbuche.

Cross the Chukkung glacier and walk down to the Dudh Koshi River valley. Walk past Dingboche and descend to the Imja Khola(river). After crossing the river an upward trail brings you to the Sherpa village of Pangboche.

Leaving Pangboche you climb down a path filled with amazing alpine scenery and views of Ama Dablam. Cross the village of Debuche and arrive at the small settlement of Tengboche. Spend some time exploring the village and visit the magnificent Tengboche Monastery. This is the oldest and the most important monastery in the Khumbu Region. Later take the trail to Namche. After you arrive in Namche you can enjoy a hot shower and a good meal of your choice.

Crossing the metal bridges covered with prayer flags and pine forests you descend to Lukla. Walk past the village of Monjo and the gate of the Sagarmatha National Park. An easy descent via the village of Phakding brings you once again to Lukla. Celebrations follow and you spend a joyous evening with the local crew celebrating your achievement.

Bid goodbye to the mountains and fly to Kathmandu. Once you reach Kathmandu, check-in at your hotel and take a rest. Evening or late afternoon you can explore Thamel by yourself and shop for souvenirs.

It's time to bid farewell to the enchanting land of Nepal. You will be transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport for your departure flight. Depart with incredible memories and a sense of accomplishment from your Mera and Island Peak climbing expedition.